Theth Church Albania

Treks / Albania · Kosovo · Montenegro

Peaks of the Balkans

Albania · Kosovo · Montenegro · Nearest city: Tirana (also Shkodër, Podgorica, Pristina)

TypeMulti-day trek
Days10–13
Distance≈ 192 km
Climbingvaries
Highest point2,300 m

A cross-border loop through the Accursed Mountains of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, staying in village guesthouses.

Fitness Hard
Best seasonMid-June to September

Watch out: Border crossings require a permit registered in advance.

Why people choose it

It's a cross-border trek through three countries, staying with shepherd families in the Accursed Mountains.

What makes it different

  • Three countries in one trek
  • Village guesthouse hospitality
  • Still quiet and wild

Route options

There is rarely just one way to walk Peaks of the Balkans. These are the main choices people make.

  • Length: most people take 10–13 days, 11 is typical. You can shorten it by skipping a stage with a bus or lift, or lengthen it with rest days.
  • Where to start: it's a loop, so you can start at any stop, for example Theth, Valbonë, Dobërdol. Start where transport or free beds suit you.

Similar treks to consider

Before you go

Some of these are affiliate links: if you book through them we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. We only list services that fit this trek.

Phone and data

EU 'roam like at home' doesn't apply in Albania and Kosovo and Montenegro, and many plans charge extra there. A Europe data eSIM covers Albania and Kosovo and Montenegro too.

Europe eSIM on Airalo

Expect long stretches with no signal on the trail. Download offline maps and our GPX before you start.

Insurance that covers this trek

This trek reaches 2,300 m, and many policies stop covering hiking at 2,000 to 3,000 m unless you add an activity upgrade. World Nomads needs its Level 3 activities above 2,000 m, Heymondo its Adventure add-on above 3,000 m, and SafetyWing's Nomad Insurance covers trekking up to 4,500 m.

Rescue is not the same as evacuation. Travel insurance usually pays to fly you to hospital, but not always for the search and rescue itself. Read the policy's "search and rescue" section.

True Traveller sells only to UK and EEA residents. Always check the altitude limit and your country of residence in the policy wording. Our trekking insurance guide explains what to look for.

Camping and where to sleep

Wild camping is widely tolerated in the Albanian mountains, and village guesthouses are cheap and welcoming.

Rules change and differ between parks. Check with the local park or tourist office before you pitch a tent.

Route map

Download GPX

Map layers load on the live site. Use the overview below meanwhile.

Trail from OpenStreetMap (194.6 km) Start / finish Stop on the way Nearest city

Switch between Topo, Satellite and Street layers with the layer button, and turn on the marked hiking trails overlay. The trail line is the OpenStreetMap hiking route and may differ from the variant you choose. Always carry a proper hiking map on the trail.

Stops: Theth → Valbonë → Dobërdol → Plav → back to Theth

Simple overview map
ThethValbonëDobërdolPlav20 kmN

Step by step

  1. Months before

    Plan and book

    • Arrange any border-zone permits or crossings in advance.
    • Best time to go: Mid-June to September.
  2. 6–12 weeks before

    Train and test your gear

    • Take the readiness quiz to see how many weeks of training you need.
    • Break in your boots and train with the pack you'll carry.
    • Tick off the packing list to see what you still need.
  3. Getting there

    Travel to the start

    • Most people start from Tirana.
  4. On the trail

    Walk it

    • Start early each day, so you arrive before the afternoon weather and the rush for beds.
    • You can carry a tent and camp where it's allowed, which saves money and gives more flexibility.
  5. The finish

    Get home

    • The route is a loop, so you finish where you started.

How the season changes things

Best time: Mid-June to September

June to early July

Early season

Snow patches linger on north-facing slopes and high passes. Huts are just opening, meadows are full of flowers and paths are quieter.

Bring

  • Microspikes or light crampons for snow patches
  • Gaiters
  • Warmer layers for cold mornings

Mid-July to August

Peak season

Most reliable weather, but also the busiest huts and frequent afternoon thunderstorms. Hot in the valleys.

Bring

  • Sun hat and high-factor sunscreen
  • Rain jacket for storms
  • Hut bookings made months ahead

September

Late season

Clear, stable days and fewer people, but shorter daylight, cold nights and some huts closing mid to late September.

Bring

  • Down jacket for cold evenings
  • Headlamp for early starts
  • Check hut closing dates

Be ready for

Navigation

Paths can be faint or disappear in mist. Carry an offline map on your phone and a paper map, and know how to use them.

What you'll see

8 photos taken on and around the route by Wikimedia Commons photographers. Tap one to see it bigger.

Gear for the Peaks of the Balkans

Photo credits: Theth Church Albania by peter_h, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons; Valbona, Albania by You may re-use this image under the terms of the license using the following reference: Image: Wikipedia / Tobias Klenze / CC-BY-SA 4.0. The license must be a link!, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Sheu i keq, Reka e Allagës, Rugovë, Kosovë photo by Bresta, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Valbona Valley by Alexkom000, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Mountains in Theth by Alexkom000, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Valbona, Albania by You may re-use this image under the terms of the license using the following reference: Image: Wikipedia / Tobias Klenze / CC-BY-SA 4.0. The license must be a link!, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Valbona, Albania by You may re-use this image under the terms of the license using the following reference: Image: Wikipedia / Tobias Klenze / CC-BY-SA 4.0. The license must be a link!, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Plav Lake in Montenegro by Андрей Романенко, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Photos resized for the web. Figures are approximate and vary with the variant you choose.